San Antonio de Padua Mission

Along the Mission Trail

There is irony here.  Of all the missions in Alta California, San Antonio de Padua is the most isolated and the most peaceful.  It is also the most authentically restored, giving the 21st century traveler a real feel for early mission life.  The Salinan Indians were particularly loyal to the mission.   The padres made an effort to learn their language; they taught them to sing and read music; they formed a prosperous settlement forged on trust.  That such a place is located on a military base unnerved me a bit.  History likes to throw curve balls.   The United States Army purchased the mission's surrounding lands from Randolph Hearst in 1940.  On this beautiful tract of land in southwest Monterey County, called "The Valley of  the Oaks,"  men were trained for combat during World War II.  Hunter-Liggett Military Reserve is still an active base.  We passed tanks, humvees, an obstacle course, and miles of chain linked fence to get here.

This was the third mission established in California.  On July 14, 1771, Padre Junipero Serra hung bells from the branches of oak trees.  Deep melodious tones filled the valley.  The local Indians came.  And stayed.  Mission San Antonio de Padua was born.

 Padre Miguel Pieras and Padre Buenaventura Sitjar were left  in charge.  Sitjar remained for 37 years, and I suspect, this is why he was so beloved.  There was a sense of stability.  The neophytes helped construct the adobe church.  They built an aqueduct to carry water from the San Antonio River three miles away.  A reservoir was built, a gristmill, a tannery, kitchens and buildings for storage.  By 1801, San Antonio was considered one of the most prosperous of the missions with more than 1,000 people living and working here.  There were 7,000 heads of cattle, 11,000 sheep and harvests of wheat, corn and grapes were plentiful.

 Indians converted to the new religion.  The first Catholic wedding in Alta California was performed here between a soldier from Mexico and a local Salinan woman.  There were births, baptisms, celebrations and burials.

Two more priests arrived in 1804, and they, too, stayed for many, many years.  Padre Juan Bautista Sancho brought music to the mission.  Padre Pedro Cabot, known as "El Caballero" (the gentleman) also seemed like a particularly kind man.  He stayed here for 30 years and was so concerned about the young girls when secularization occurred, he made an effort to make sure they were all married before he left.  (Even girls as young as ten!)  But, as the padre said, "They would have a protector."

I found it interesting that even after secularization, a young priest from Mexico took up residence here and several Indian families remained with him.  Padre Doroteo Ambris died here in 1883 and is buried in the sanctuary.  Only then, was the mission finally abandoned.

Am I looking at life here through rose-colored glasses?    I want so desperately to believe that genuine love and happiness took place in this beautiful locale.  I have written far too many derogatory things about the missions, but my gut told me this place was different.  The padres seemed removed from politics.  There was nothing in the museum exhibits to indicate bouts of horrible disease or Indian uprisings.

And here lies another irony.  If the military hadn't bought the land, would the town of Jolon have grown?  Would there be a McDonald's across from the old church rather than a large field?  The closest city to San Antonio de Padua is King City, 29 miles away.  Getting here is truly off the beaten track.

This is the only one of the 21 missions where you can stay the night.  We saw the corridor of guest rooms, but did not see a single soul even though it was a Sunday afternoon and the mission is an active Catholic parish, owned by the Diocese of Monterey.  I could not shake the feeling, however, that my every move was being watched.  

We walked the lovely grounds.  The ruins are well-documented with signs and the rose garden is probably at its peak.  My travel buddy commented, "You know I keep thinking that I will tire of these mission visits, but I never do."  San Antonio de Padua is often cited as the most original of the reconstructed missions.  The main church is the same building that was constructed in 1810. 

As we left, three other cars pulled in.  Other, restless souls drawn to the magic of this old adobe church on a military base in the middle of the Valley of the Oaks.